Itacaré in the Rain: What to Do When the Weather Turns

It rains in Itacaré all year round, and almost always in the same way: a heavy shower late in the morning, the sea turns gray for an hour, and by three in the afternoon the sun is back and the sand has already dried. A truly rainy day, the kind that gives no respite, is rare. But it happens, especially between April and July, and it pays to have a plan up your sleeve that doesn't depend on blue skies.

First, take a calm look at the sky

Your phone's forecast tends to exaggerate: "100% chance of rain" in Itacaré means it will rain at some point, not all day. The guide's tide and weather page shows rainfall in millimeters and the day's tide. Up to 10 millimeters, the beach is still on; that is the most common case. From 25 up, the plan changes.

In light rain: the beach anyway

Warm sea water at 25 to 29 degrees doesn't cool down with a drizzle. Concha, five minutes from Pituba, has covered beach huts that serve lunch while the rain passes. Ribeira, with its calm sea and moqueca beach huts, is the best spot for sitting and watching the rain fall on the water. What not to do in the rain: forest trails. Prainha, Jeribucaçu and the four-beach trail get slippery and the streams rise.

In heavy rain: the river, the kitchen and the village

• Rio de Contas. The boat trip to Cachoeira do Cleandro is covered, and the mangrove looks even prettier under a gray sky. Check with the agency that the river is navigable.
• Cacau. A visit to a cacau farm, ending at the chocolate factory, is the most Itacaré rainy-day plan there is. The agencies listed under Services sell it with transport included.
• Pituba and the village. Rua Pedro Longo has art and beachwear shops, cafés and ice cream parlors. The Passarela da Vila and the old houses along the Orla are the historic part, best explored with an umbrella.
• Long table. A rainy day is a day for a long, leisurely lunch. See Where to eat and use the cuisine-type filter.
• Surfing. For surfers, rain without wind often means good waves at Tiririca. For non-surfers, the grandstand is the covered sand of the beach huts.

If you're traveling with kids

Pousadas with a covered pool or a games area save the day. Ribeira, with its freshwater stream, works even in a drizzle. The cacau farm is good for all ages. The trail is not.

Practical info

• When it rains most: April to July and November; less rain from August to October
• How to read the forecast: up to 10 mm, beach; above 25 mm, covered plan
• Good in the rain: Concha, Ribeira, a boat trip on the Rio de Contas, the cacau farm, Pituba, a long lunch
• Avoid in the rain: forest trails (Prainha, Jeribucaçu, four beaches) and waterfalls when the river is high
• Before heading out: the guide's Alerts and the day's tide and weather